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Episode:
40
Why the Beauty Industry Sucks: Packaging, Marketing, and Supply Chain Solutions (Part Two)
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Welcome to part 2 of my mini-series on the beauty industry. In the last episode, we talked about all the issues with the beauty industry, and I’ll be honest, it wasn’t super cheerful. So for this episode, we are changing things up and discussing the different solutions currently available for all the problems we mentioned.
In this episode, I share:
"Chemicals are not the enemy; you are made of chemicals… so remember that the next time someone tries to sell you something that is chemical-free."
"If you don’t see any information about a product's supply chain, that’s kind of a red flag."
"Overconsumption is the single biggest issue in the beauty industry."
0:00:00
Kia ora kaitiaki and welcome to Now That's What I Call Green. I'm your host, Brianne West, an environmentalist and entrepreneur trying to get you as excited about our planet as I am. I'm all about creating a scientific approach to making the world a better place without the judgment and making it fun. And of course, we will be chatting about some of the most amazing creatures we share our
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planet with. So if you are looking to navigate through everything green or not so green, you have come to the right place. Kia ora kaitiaki, welcome back. So last time we talked about some of the biggest issues in the beauty industry, over consumption, plastic waste, dodgy supply chains, and of course the marketing nonsense, which makes us buy it all. It wasn't super cheerful, but today we're focusing on solutions. So this
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episode is all about the exciting innovations and the things that are happening in the beauty industry right now to try and make it that little bit more beautiful. There are some brands and some movements that are making real progress because there's things like circular beauty systems that cut down on waste to sustainable ingredients sourcing that doesn't destroy rainforests or, you know, exploit people. And there's a little bit of green chemistry in there because obviously I love science.
0:01:11
Now, I've spent years working in this industry, so I have seen the worst, but I've also seen the best. And while we're definitely not there yet, I am excited to share some of the good stuff that has been happening. I thought I'd start with circular beauty because you've probably heard the term before, at least circular economy, and you've certainly seen advertising for it.
0:01:30
It sounds like the perfect solution to the beauty industry's waste problem, right? So the idea is to design products that generate minimal waste, either by reusing the packaging or cutting it out entirely or at least making sure it's recyclable or compostable. And yes, I can hear those of you in the back saying, oh, but surely most stuff is already recyclable technically, so doesn't that make it circular? No, it's important that it is readily recyclable and frankly, very few materials tick that box. And by very few, I mean none. But whilst circular beauty is an exciting concept, some of the most popular solutions
0:02:04
that you will have heard of like refills, refillable packaging, and closed loop systems don't actually work very well. Refills are really popular. You've probably seen brands offering refill stations in the supermarkets for things like shampoo. You'll also have seen brands offering you buy a one-off, which is like the moisturiser
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bottle if you like, and then you can buy a refill to refill it. And in theory, it's a great idea because you reuse that same bottle over and over again instead of buying a new one each time. But reality check, less than 5% of consumers actually use refill programs regularly. And that's not a number I've made up. That has been multiple studies. So sure, smaller, hyper-local businesses definitely have higher numbers because they attract a certain type of audience. But when it comes to scaling, it just doesn't
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happen because most of us don't bother refilling our bottles. So all of that refillable packaging, which somewhat ironically is often chunkier so it's made to last, that ends up as single-use waste anyway. So this is, in my opinion, almost guaranteed to never be a mass consumer solution. Changing people's behavior to something less convenient is so freaking hard. Some brands have tried to make it a little bit easier with stuff like reusable tools
0:03:14
and applicators like refillable makeup compacts where you just replace the little powder or the pan, but you keep the case. And those sorts of things seem to have a better pickup by consumers. They seem to be a little less inconvenient. But the core problem remains low participation rates and pretty limited infrastructure. So while refillables have some kind of potential
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I don't think they're the ultimate solution here. Not until you remove the human equation anyway. So let's have a look at biodegradable packaging. This is what we did with Ethique technically. So our products were formatted so they could be packaged in home compostable cardboard.
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But some brands are going further, which is pretty cool, with new chemistry and experimenting with packaging made from biodegradable or compostable materials like cornstarch, which can be a gray area because it can involve PLA, which is a plastic, bamboo, or even mushrooms.
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And seaweed's another one too. And it's not widely adopted yet, but it is a fast-growing and fascinating area. And these materials, well, theoretically, they could replace single-use plastics. But there is a catch,
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because yes, of course, there always is one. Biodegradables are only biodegradable if they're disposed of properly, because many people still don't have access to the right composting facilities, so these materials could still end up in landfills where they won't break down as intended because
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pretty much nothing breaks down in a landfill. Another obvious solution, but it seems to have eluded so many brands so far, is mono-material packaging where brands just use one type of material for their products, making it way easier to recycle. Because as I said in the last episode, traditionally beauty packaging is made of a mix of plastics and metals and other materials.
0:04:47
So you're basically ensuring recycling just doesn't happen. But hey, it looks pretty on the shelf. But if they use single materials, like, I don't know, 100% aluminum, brands are ensuring that the packaging can be recycled much more easily.
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So they're more likely to be recycled. Then there's minimalist packaging, of course, which is an obvious step that brands should definitely be taking. So instead of putting products in bottles and then boxes with loads of unnecessary inserts and flyers,
0:05:12
some brands are getting rid of all of that altogether and they're just going with the bottle or just the box. It's really simple, obviously, but it's very effective. The only problem, of course, is it actually is less appealing to the consumer because we are so conditioned to expect over-packaged, glittery, sparkly, you know, gold in our packaging that it actually signals to our brain that something that's over-packaged is more effective.
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So brands have to contend with that. And obviously, one of my favourites here, solid beauty products are still one of the best ways to cut out packaging altogether. Yes, definitely, I have a conflict, so let me declare it. But a single shampoo bar, at least one of the ones I formulated, can replace up to three bottles of liquid shampoo and it doesn't require a plastic container at all.
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When I launched Ethique, this was a core focus because I saw firsthand how much plastic waste it could save. It was a no-brainer. But I am truly delighted to see how many more brands are embracing this idea. You've got loads of brands, right here in Aotearoa, you've got loads of brands all around the world, even the likes of Garnier and L'Oreal are getting in on the shampoo bar and I see a lot of growth in this category. It's still
0:06:16
definitely on the out, but it's growing. Unfortunately, I have seen a lot of brands creating bars, capitalising on that trend, but for some reason, they're still wrapping it in plastic. It's baffling how they can get so close and totally miss the point. So all of these approaches, whether it's biodegradable packaging, minimalist design or whatever, they could make a significant impact by reducing the need for those single-use plastic or packaging in general and cutting down on the carbon emissions from production and transport. But we need widespread adoption
0:06:44
to really make a dent in the beauty industry's massive waste problem. The biggest change though, as I mentioned last time, is not buying anything we don't need. But again, it's changing behaviour and that takes time. When it comes to things like sustainable sourcing and fair trade initiatives, there's a bit more going on here.
0:07:01
I talked about the darker side of supply chains last episode and it was pretty grim. And I actually went pretty easy on you because look, the more you dig, the worse it gets. I use palm oil as an example. We all know how devastating unsustainable palm oil
0:07:14
can be for the environment. This deforestation, biodiversity loss, human rights abuses, all tied to its production. And if you don't know what I'm talking about, go back and listen to the last episode. But not all palm oil is created equal.
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The Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil, you will see it as RSPO, is one of the major certification bodies trying to address these issues. So brands can use RSPO certified palm oil and there's different types within that certification system to ensure that it's sourced from plantations that follow strict environmental and social
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standards. Things like no deforestation, no exploitation of workers and better land use practices. Well, so they say. Because of course, this certification isn't perfect. There are criticisms of RSPO and actually some of those criticisms are one of the reasons I actually made Ethique palm oil free.
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And the biggest criticism is that it often doesn't enforce its standards as strongly as it should. So therefore, not all sustainable (using air quotes here) palm oil is created equal. Still, if you see the RSPO label, it's a good indication that the brand is at least making
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an effort to be more responsible. Next week, I am chatting to two palm oil experts to really, really dig into this, because palm oil is something that I think is a way bigger issue than people realise. So tune in next week to hear more. But there are companies working towards even more sustainable alternatives
0:08:32
to palm oil. Some are exploring microbial fermentation to create oils that have the same properties without the need for the trees. That is fricking awesome. Fermentation is going to change the way we eat. It's now changing the beauty industry. So imagine a future where we can grow oils in labs with zero deforestation, zero biodiversity loss. That's pretty fricking cool. However, I am a wee bit worried about this one because I imagine that the natural at
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all costs brigade will take exception to this idea of synthetically made chemicals and they might do more harm than they imagine. A little bit like what happened with GMOs. GMOs, complicated subject. Yes, something else I'm going to do an episode on. But worry about all that later.
0:09:11
Now in the last episode, I mentioned shea butter and cocoa butter as well. Both of these are heavily used in the beauty industry from everything from moisturisers to lip balms, and they're fab ingredients. Now both are harvested in places like West Africa where women do the bulk of the work, but as usual, earn far less than the living wage. Look, they earn far less than what I'd consider a minimum wage.
0:09:32
And this is where Fair Trade initiatives come in. So Fairtrade certifications, they ensure that the workers who grow, harvest, and process these ingredients are paid fairly, they work in safe conditions and they are not exploited. Brands that use these Fairtrade Certified Shea and Cocoa Butters are supporting workers and ensuring the supply chain is that little bit more equitable. And more and more brands are incorporating these principles, nowhere
0:09:51
near enough, frankly, because this should be the bare bloody minimum, and you should be asking your brands if they source their ingredients fairly. Because if they don't, it's exploitation. There is no way around that. I have this argument a lot. For those of you asking how on earth would these companies afford this, I have two questions
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for you.
0:10:08
Why does our desire for lip balms trump someone else deserving a decent quality of life and fair labour conditions? And my second question, how profitable are these beauty companies? This information is not hard to find as many of them are public entities and I'm pretty sure within those margins they could find the ability to pay people what they are owed. Anyway, fair trade is a button for me.
0:10:31
I also talked about mica, the mineral that gives makeup its shimmery glitteriness. Now as I mentioned, about 25% of the world's mica is sourced from mines where child labor is still massively prevalent. Now some companies are shifting to synthetic mica. No, I won't be pronouncing it for you, I dare you to look it up. Synthetic fleur-de-lis is the closest I have come and that's embarrassing. It's lab created
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so it's free from exploitation that's common in some traditional micromining. It also, of course, removes the environmental cost. But some mica can also be contaminated, so the product itself has better quality control. Of course, with anything, transparency is key. Brands need to be clear about where their ingredients are coming from, how they're sourced, and what certifications they hold. If you don't see any information about a product supply chain, that's kind of a red flag.
0:11:18
So ask them, because if a company is doing good, they will want you to know. Most of them, as grim as this sounds, aren't doing good just because it makes them feel better. They're doing good because it helps them sell stuff. So if they're not talking about it,
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they're probably not doing it. So ask them. On the positive side, there are more and more brands embracing these principles, and as consumers, that's because we've demanded it. So we can absolutely push the industry to do better by supporting the ones that are doing it
0:11:44
right and demanding better of those who are not. Talking about lab-created stuff, there are some really cool green chemistry innovations which may play a big role in making beauty products more ethical and sustainable. At its core, green chemistry is just about creating products that are safer for the environment and for human and animal health. They use ingredients and processes that minimise waste and pollution. But of course it does have the C word in it, so there are people who are going to be against it from day one. Reminder that chemicals are not the enemy. You are made of chemicals.
0:12:13
Everything is chemicals. So just remember that next time someone tries to sell you something that's chemical free. One of these areas where green chemistry is having an impact is the shift towards biodegradable ingredients. So historically a lot of beauty products contain ingredients that don't break down easily and they can be incredibly harmful to the environment because they wash down our drains and our water treatment facilities can't necessarily get rid of them.
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So what comes to mind immediately is the microbeads. Sure, they've been banned in a lot of places, but there is actually still quite a lot of plastic in your products. Have a look on the back of your pack for things like acrylates, copolymer, polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, or you may see it as PMMA, nylon 12 or nylon 6, polyurethane, and of course, silicones, which aren't technically a plastic,
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but also sort of are. These ingredients can linger in the environment, and we don't really know what that's doing yet. But as more and more brands are working with ingredients that break down naturally, creative and clever chemists without harming ecosystems.
0:13:08
So hopefully the industry at large moves away from those. There's another movement towards waterless beauty, which is kind of an interesting one. Many traditional beauty products contain 90-95% water, some are even 98% but your micellar water can be up to 98% water, which is ridiculous when you think about the fact that water is literally on tap in your bathroom where you use these products. Water is necessary for these products
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to work, but it does add bulk and weight. And obviously requires more stable packaging like plastic. But waterless beauty products, on the other hand, come in concentrated formulas, so things like powders and balms and oils, or bars, obviously.
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And then you activate them at home by adding the water. Now, this isn't a carte blanche statement saying these are good, because they can come with complications, but they are often better packaged, they often last longer,
0:14:00
so per purchase is less impact, and they may be that bit more efficient. And sure, with climate change making water scarcity an increasing problem, the less water we use in our products, the better. But whilst, yes, we are absolutely in a freshwater crisis,
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some places more extreme than others, this is a pretty small impact area, to be honest. But as with everything, it's really important to recognize that green chemistry is not yet a magic fix. It's still developing,
0:14:23
and there are plenty of products on the market that are labelled natural or green and they are just not. This is where that consumer awareness comes in and I know that that's asking a lot because how on earth can you possibly know everything? But I think the key thing is transparency because if a brand isn't willing to provide transparency around the ingredients they use or the methods that they're looking at, they're
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probably not as green as they claim to be. So where does that leave us? After everything I've covered in the last two episodes, the overconsumption, the waste, the dodgy supply chains, the potential solutions, it all comes down to the choices that we make because we as consumers have all of the power. And I know it is so easy to feel overwhelmed by the scale of the problems in the beauty
0:15:03
industry, but the truth is we have the power to make the industry better.
0:15:07
Yeah.
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It's funny how often as consumers we say, oh, there's nothing we can do. Individually, sure, that feels a little more true, but collectively, these businesses only exist because we give them our custom. So the first step is to buy less. It sounds simple, but overconsumption
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is the single biggest issue in the beauty industry because none of these problems would be as big if we stopped buying stuff we didn't need. And the truth is, most of us don't really need as many products as we think. Do we really need 10 serums or six shades of red lipstick?
0:15:38
Probably not, and actually, it's worse for your skin switching out your skincare every 10 seconds. You want to give something, you know, 3 to 4 months to see if it's working. So one of the best ways to reduce your environmental impact is simply to buy fewer products and make sure the ones you do buy are things you'll actually use. So take advantage of in-store testers, read reviews, and don't go crazy at the next sale. When you do make a purchase, look for transparency, which of course along with authenticity is the buzzword
0:16:03
at the moment. But brands that are truly committed to sustainability will provide you clear information about their ingredients, their sourcing practices and their packaging choices. The best kind of transparency for me is when a brand is like, hey, we're doing this, we're also doing this and it's not perfect, but frankly we don't have any other options. So we're being clear with you that this isn't great, but we are working on it.
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Because they're bringing you along on that journey because it's impossible to be perfect as a business. In fact, it's bloody difficult to be good as a business. But the ones that show you the fact that they're the good and the bad, they are the ones that I truly believe deserve your support. If a company is vague or doesn't provide any information, again, red flag, you should be able to find out where the ingredients that you're purchasing are coming from, whether the workers are paid fairly, and what kind of packaging they're using. This is what we
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demand from fashion manufacturers now, right? If a fashion brand doesn't have some kind of page on sustainability or wage, it's kind of unusual. And yet, do you ever see that in the beauty industry? It's very rare. So don't be afraid to ask these questions because if a brand can't or won't answer, I think that tells you all you need to know. Next, I want you to consider the life cycle of the product. So this means thinking beyond just the product itself and looking at the full environmental cost, which is obviously
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hard to do because so much of it is hidden. But take a good guess. Think about how it's made, what it's packaged in, how far it's traveled to get to you, what happens to the packaging after you're done with it? Choose products with minimal
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or very recyclable mono-material packaging, or even better, packaging-free options like solid beauty products. Yes, again, conflict there. That is a great way to cut down on waste. As I've said before, recycling is a good start,
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but it is, is it even a good start? Look, I don't know. I'm pretty disillusioned about recycling at the moment, to be perfectly honest. I'm not saying not to recycle. I'm just saying let's not rely on it because we need to move towards reducing and reusing way more than we do. I really hope that you look for brands that focus on ethical ingredient sourcing. Certifications like Fairtrade and RSPO, they're not perfect, but they're a good starting point when you're
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looking for more responsible options. Again, the more you support companies with them, the better they'll get. And then finally, be wary of greenwashing. I mentioned this in my last episode, but just because a product is labelled as natural or eco-friendly doesn't mean it is. We've talked about it a lot, but it bears repeating. Look beyond the buzzwords. A natural ingredient does not automatically mean it's sustainable and in fact can mean the polar opposite. And just because something is labelled as clean, a word I hate, it doesn't mean it's free from harm. Always dig a wee bit deeper
0:18:29
and do your research. And I know I'm asking a lot, but again, we change business, we change the world. None of this is about being perfect. No one expects you to overhaul everything overnight. But if you're more mindful about what you buy, how often you buy it, and where those products are coming from, you can make a real difference. I promise you, you have more power than you think you do. Because every time you choose a product that's made sustainably, ethically and with less waste, you're casting a vote for a better way of doing business.
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The beauty industry is slowly changing, but as consumers, we can speed that change up by making brands do better. There are some brilliant brands out there already considering all that I have talked about and no doubt more, so seek them out and support them because far out running a business is hard. I obviously have absolutely nothing to do with Ethique anymore, but I remember those
0:19:13
early days of trying to input all these decisions and trying to figure out how to run a business at scale and sustainably. And it's a lot of juggling. So please do go support those businesses that are doing good things. The next couple of episodes in this mini-series will focus on products themselves. So what's in them, how sustainable they are, how you should choose products that work for
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you, and what alternatives you could be looking for. I'll be talking about some of the biggest challenges when it comes to product formulations and the solutions that are out there. But before that, I have an episode coming up in the middle that takes a look at something I've talked about a lot
0:19:43
in these two episodes, which is palm oil. As I said, I'll be sitting down with two experts to explore the real story behind palm because I don't think a boycott is the right answer anymore. So stick around, Kaitiaki, because there is a lot more to come.
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And as always, if you've got questions, thoughts or suggestions for future episodes, get in touch. Until next time, ma te wa. And there you go. I hope you learned something
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